Here's my thoughts about Penang Char kway teow
It’s something that you have to try when you are in Malaysia, and
definitely when you are in Penang. There’s nothing quite like this plate
of flat rice noodles, short, fat crunchy bean sprouts and a handful of
kuchai (garlic chives), a few prawns (if you’re lucky), a dollop of
ground chilli paste, and optional seeham (cockles), fried up with
chopped garlic in a large spoonful of lard. Some stalls add a few
slivers of Chinese sausage.
It’s got to be good and quick, and all
bound together with some good black soya sauce and an egg thrown in
right at the end. No wonder this all-time favourite has been voted one
of Penang’s traditional heritage listings.
A good Penang Char kway teow must
have “wok hei”, that certain characteristic aroma that can only be
achieved with a large black metal wok sat over a really fiery heat (none
of this non-stick stuff). The heat caramelises the sugar in the soya
sauce and gives it a faintly burnt taste and makes your mouth drool when
you smell it!
There are various versions of it available all over
Malaysia: some are darker through the addition of more thick black soya
sauce; others are redder (extra chilli). Some use thicker, broader
noodles; others are finer.
Some people prefer it slightly wetter with a
touch more gravy; others prefer it with more yolk – achieved using a
duck’s egg instead of the more traditional chicken. Here in Penang it’s a
bit of in-between – neither too thick nor thin, neither too black nor
red – in fact, any Penangite will tell you, “It’s perfect!” For our
Muslim friends, halal versions are very popular too, available in many
of our great hotels and restaurants.
Traditionally a poor man’s
meal because of its high carbohydrate and relatively low protein
content, in recent years the humble Penang Char Kway Teow can also be found in
the more upmarket establishments: small shrimps have been replaced by
succulent pieces of lobster, and it also comes garnished with juicy crab
meat, which will of course mean commensurate prices. However,
aficionados will argue that these add-ones are unnecessary: a good Penang Char
Kway Teow seller doesn’t need such fancy items to enhance his specialty.
He will make do with traditional ingredients only, because all he
requires is that special skill.
Everyone has a personal favourite in
some nook or cranny, although cholesterol notwithstanding, many seem
prepared to travel far and wide in their hunt for the perfect plate of
this local favourite. Personally, I don’t think we need to go far. And
there are many places where you can get good char kway teow in Penang -
someone will have set up his gigantic black wok at practically every
coffee shop or food court.
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